Nuc Hive Setup FAQs

What is a nuc hive?

A nuc hive is a small colony used for beekeeping to help establish new hives.

How to set up my nuc?

Follow our comprehensive guide for step-by-step instructions to ensure a smooth setup of your nuc.

What are expert tips?

Expert tips include choosing the right location, ensuring proper ventilation, and monitoring the bees closely during the setup.

Can I get help anytime?

Yes, free SMS and web chat help is available.

What if I need assistance?

Wombat Way clients can reach out for free support via SMS or web chat whenever you need assistance.

Nuc timeline and installation

A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners (Including NSW Legal Requirements)

Starting a new bee colony is one of the most exciting moments for any beekeeper. Whether it’s your first hive or you’re adding to your apiary, how you handle those first few weeks sets the tone for your colony’s success. From transporting your bees safely to feeding them well, and ensuring you meet NSW legal obligations, here’s a practical, beginner-friendly guide.

NSW Legal Requirements: Hive Numbers and Marking

Before bringing your new colony home, it’s important to comply with NSW beekeeping laws:

Register for a hive identification number through the NSW Department of Primary Industries (DPI) Bees Online system. This number officially registers your apiary on the state database.
Each hive must be marked with this unique hive number or an approved mark. This mark must be clearly visible at the hive entrance or on the hive body.
The purpose is for biosecurity, traceability, and disease management—it helps authorities track and manage hives in case of pest or disease outbreaks.
You must renew your registration annually and update the APIARY location details if you move hives.
Keep records of hive inspections, movements, and health for at least 3 years as required by NSW regulations.
Failure to register or mark your hives can lead to fines and bureaucratic delays, so comply early to avoid issues.

More details and registration are available on the NSW DPI website and Bees Online portal.

Transporting Your New Colony: Keep It Cool and Ventilated

Transport is the first critical step. Bees are sensitive to heat and lack of airflow, so:

Move bees at dusk or night when most foragers are inside the hive, reducing losses and agitation.
Keep the hive oriented upright and secure so frames don’t shift or get crushed.
Ensure plenty of ventilation. Use screening or mesh to cover entrances—this blocks escape routes but allows fresh air to flow, preventing overheating.
Keep the hive cool and out of direct sunlight, especially on hot days. Avoid leaving the colony in parked cars or enclosed spaces where temperatures can climb rapidly.

Driving carefully to avoid excessive jostling can also reduce bee stress. Once at your location, place the hive on its stand before opening it.

Setting Up Your New Equipment

Prepare your hive and equipment before transferring bees:

Choose a dry, stable, and level site, ideally with morning sun to warm the colony early.
Set up your bottom board with an entrance reducer to control hive traffic.
Assemble your brood boxes and fill them with frames, either pre-wired with foundation or with drawn comb if available.
Add a feeder frame or an external feeder with cooled 1:1 sugar syrup ready to help your colony get started.
Cover the hive with a roof and secure with a strap if your site is windy or exposed.
Don’t forget to mark your hive clearly with your NSW hive number, either on the entrance or the outer hive body.

How to Transfer Your New Colony into Your Hive

Transferring bees from a nucleus (nuc) or package into your hive should be done carefully:

Choose a warm sunny day when bees are flying actively to reduce bee loss.
Move your nuc hive gently to the new hive stand and keep the entrance temporarily blocked.
Place an empty frame feeder and some foundation frames in the brood box.
Wear your protective gear and use gentle smoke to calm bees.
Carefully remove frames, maintaining the same order as the nuc, and place them one by one into the new brood box.
Replace some foundation frames gradually to give bees room to expand.
Shake any remaining bees from the nuc into the new hive.
Fit the crown board and an empty super on top for future expansion.
Close the hive with the roof and reduce the entrance to prevent robbing.

Feeding Your New Colony for the First Few Weeks

New colonies need a good start with nutrition to draw comb, raise brood, and build strength:

Feed cooled 1:1 sugar syrup (equal parts sugar and water) as it mimics natural nectar and encourages comb building.
Begin feeding immediately after transfer, ideally in a feeder frame inside the hive or a top feeder.
Provide pollen substitute patties if natural pollen sources are scarce, to support brood development.
Feed regularly but only as much as the bees will consume in 5-7 days to avoid attracting hive beetles or robbers.
Continue feeding until the colony has drawn out and filled most of the frames and starts foraging on its own.
Avoid feeding syrup if you have honey supers on to prevent contamination of honey harvest.

What to Look for as Your Colony Establishes

In the first 1-2 weeks, check that the queen is laying well, which will be indicated by a good pattern of eggs, larvae, and capped brood.
Watch for healthy brood patterns without empty patches or signs of disease.
Bees will start drawing comb on foundation frames; this is a crucial sign your colony is establishing itself.
Expect a growing population; initially, workers will focus on nest building and brood care.
Monitor store levels—adequate honey and pollen reserves indicate a healthy start.
If bees appear calm and busy with normal flight activity, this is a good sign of colony health.
Be alert for any signs of stress, such as excessive queenlessness indicators or absence of brood after several weeks.

Expected Growth Timeline

Weeks 1-3: Colony focuses on drawing comb, queen settles in, brood rearing starts. The population is still relatively small but growing.
Weeks 4-6: Brood nest expands, and the colony’s adult population increases rapidly.
Weeks 6-8: Colony should be strong with a good workforce, ready to exploit nectar flows fully.
If growth is slow or the queen is not laying well by week 3, intervention may be needed (requeening, pest treatment).

When to Add Your First Super

Once your colony has drawn out and 7-8 frames in the brood box are filled with brood and stores (usually around 6-8 weeks after transfer), it’s time to add a honey super.
Supers encourage honey storage and reduce swarming pressure by giving bees more space.
Ensure the colony is active and the nectar flow is sufficient when adding supers to avoid underused space.

When to Expect Your First Honey

Honey harvest from a new colony generally occurs in the first active honey flow after the colony is well established, often late spring or early summer in the Southern Highlands.
Expect a modest first harvest if you kept feeding through early stages and prevented stress.
Full-sized harvests typically come in the second or third season after establishment, as the colony continues to expand and expand stores.
Always leave enough honey for the colony's survival through winter; never harvest all stores in the first season.

Final Tips for New Colony Success

Keep disturbance to a minimum in the first few weeks.
Record hive inspections and feeding schedules.
Be patient and give your colony time to settle, grow, and flourish.
Regularly check for pests and diseases to catch problems early.
Connect with local beekeeping groups for support and advice tailored to your area.

Starting your journey with a new bee colony is deeply rewarding when you follow these essential steps and meet your legal obligations in NSW. Compliance helps protect your bees and the wider industry, ensuring everyone’s success. Happy beekeeping!